Native to the quartz-gravel patches of South Africa's Little Karoo in the Western Cape, Haworthia maughanii shares its range with the closely related "玉扇" (H. truncata), yet the two take very different shapes: where truncata arranges its leaves in a flat, two-ranked (distichous) fan, maughanii spreads its cylindrical leaves in a rosette. Both species end their leaves in a sharply cut, flat truncate tip capped with a translucent window that gathers light from just above the soil surface while the rest of the plant remains buried. Known in Japanese cultivation as "玉万 (Tamaban)," the species was described by Poellnitz in 1937 and is maintained by POWO as a distinct species. IUCN status: Endangered (EN), reflecting its restricted range and collection pressure.
Native climate
Rain concentrates in the cool season, with a dry season of roughly 6 months. Overall mild, with a wide temperature range.
* Accurate distribution data is scarce for this species, so these values are taken from the climate near the approximate center of its native range instead.
Sources: climate & elevation WorldClim 2.1 (1970–2000) · occurrences GBIF · native range POWO · current weather Open-Meteo
Care
Light & Placement
In habitat the plant is almost entirely submerged in quartz gravel, relying solely on light filtered through the leaf-tip windows, so strong direct light is neither needed nor welcomed. During the active season, bright shade or 30–50% shade cloth produces the tightest growth and best window clarity. Direct sun scorches the window surfaces, causing white clouding or red-brown discoloration that can take a long time to heal. A south- or east-facing window indoors, or a fully shaded bench outdoors under shade cloth, covers the plant's needs. Through the high-heat summer half-dormancy, deepen the shade and prioritize airflow above all else. Overwinter on a bright, frost-free indoor window at no less than 3°C. As with its sister species H. truncata, excessive light is one of the most reliable ways to damage the windows that make the plant distinctive.
Watering
In spring and autumn growth, water thoroughly a few days after the substrate has fully dried, and avoid letting water sit on the truncate window surfaces. Ease back considerably in summer half-dormancy, and limit winter watering to once or twice a month.
Substrate
Drainage above all, in a strongly inorganic mix. Small-grain Akadama : Kanuma : pumice = 4:3:3 is a solid baseline; adding more pumice or Kiryu sand reflects the quartz-gravel habitat well. A taller pot helps wet-dry cycling.
Fertilizer & Supplements
A small amount of slow-release during active growth, plus a monthly dilute liquid feed (around twice the label dilution), is sufficient. Overfeeding extends the leaves and dulls window patterning — aim for slow, dense growth rather than fast bulk.
Temperature & Overwintering
Optimal 15–28°C. As a spring/autumn grower, growth slows above 28°C and enters half-dormancy above 30°C. Overwinter dry on a bright window with a 3°C floor. Heat combined with poor airflow in midsummer, and cold soil that stays wet through winter, are the main risks.
Starting from Seed
Where to source seeds
Pre-sowing treatment
Soak seeds for about half a day in a mix of a registered seed-treatment fungicide (Benlate or Daconil) and a plant tonic (Menedael; outside Japan, SUPERthrive or a chelated iron / seaweed extract serves a similar purpose), each diluted per label. The seeds are fine-grained and viability varies considerably with storage conditions, so sowing soon after receipt is the safer course.
Substrate
Use a separate seedling mix that's fine-grained and near-sterile: fine Akadama, fine Kanuma, and vermiculite in equal 1:1:1 parts. Sterilize the mix with boiling water or a quick microwave pass before sowing.
Sowing method
The seeds are small, so sow with no covering or only the thinnest dusting of substrate so the seeds remain partly visible. Space seeds at least 5 mm apart and arrange them with tweezers so they don't overlap.
Light & temperature
Keep the tray in bright shade at a steady 22–28°C. Expect germination in 7–21 days. Germination is moderate and depends strongly on seed freshness. Keep direct sun away from the tray throughout.
Watering
Bottom-water with the level 1–2 cm up the pot. For the first 2–3 weeks, prioritize not letting things dry out at all, then lower the water level in gradual stages once the seedlings have emerged.
Fertilizer
No feeding right after germination. Once two or three true leaves have appeared, give a heavily diluted liquid fertilizer once or twice a month — go lighter than the bottle suggests, as young seedlings are easily pushed into etiolation.
From Germination to Repotting
Germination through true leaves (first month)
Continue bottom watering, keep in bright shade.
Weaning off bottom watering (months 1–2)
Lower the water level, move to saucer-based bottom watering.
First repotting (year 1–2)
Repot into a primarily inorganic mix.
Common Pitfalls
Mold & damping-off
- Cause: contaminated substrate, excessive moisture, poor ventilation
- Prevention: sterilize the substrate, change the bottom water frequently, use an air circulator for ventilation
Leaf scorch & clouded windows
- Cause: abrupt strong light, no shading in midsummer
- Prevention: manage under 30–50% shade; outdoors, use a fully shaded bench
Seeds fail to germinate
- Cause: old seeds, insufficient temperature
- Prevention: choose a trusted source, stabilize temperature with a heat mat
Seedlings don't match the parent
- Cause: window patterning and leaf form in selected cultivars arise from breeding selections; these traits segregate in seedlings
- Prevention: approach the species as a wild-type seed-grown plant. Selected-form window patterns rarely come true from seed.
Notes
No known sap toxicity at the genus level.
