A medusoid ("octopus-head") Euphorbia that spreads short branches outward like an octopus's arms. It grows only on the dry, pebble-strewn hills of South Africa's Eastern Cape, between the Sundays and Zwartkops Rivers, where its squat stem sits almost flush with the ground and fans out so many low branches that it all but disappears into the gravel. A long-time favorite among growers of "octopus" Euphorbias, it is approachable from seed, sending a thick taproot deep into the soil and thickening slowly over many years. Its milky-white sap is caustic and should be handled with light care. The latest POWO treatment lists it as a synonym of Euphorbia procumbens, but the names "gorgonis" and "Gorgon's Head" are well established in horticulture, and this site keeps that usage.
Native climate
Rainfall is spread fairly evenly across the year. Overall mild, with a wide temperature range.
* Accurate distribution data is scarce for this species, so these values are taken from the climate near the approximate center of its native range instead.
Sources: climate & elevation WorldClim 2.1 (1970–2000) · occurrences GBIF · native range POWO · current weather Open-Meteo
Care
Light & Placement
Growing pressed flat against pebbly ground in South Africa's Eastern Cape and bathed in strong sun, it wants plenty of light. Give it full direct sun outdoors through the growing season to keep the branches short and tight, the way an octopus-head should look. In Japan's harshest midsummer weeks, a light 20–30% shade with a raised shelf and good airflow prevents scorch and stagnation. Because it grows right at soil level, the stem is easily damaged by lingering rain, so keep it under eaves. Move to a bright indoor window, out of rain, for winter.
Watering
In active growth, water thoroughly only after the substrate has fully dried, then let it dry again — that wet-dry rhythm keeps the branches tight. Prolonged rain leads straight to taproot rot, so shelter under eaves. In winter, mist once or twice a month.
Substrate
Drainage above all, in a largely inorganic mix. A taller pot suits the deep taproot. Small-grain Akadama : Kanuma : pumice = 4:3:3 is a reliable baseline, and a pinch of slow-release such as Magamp K steadies early growth.
Fertilizer & Supplements
A small amount of slow-release during active growth, plus a monthly dilute liquid feed (around twice the label dilution) is plenty. Overfeeding stretches the branches and loses the compact octopus-head form, and leads to root rot — aim for slow density.
Temperature & Overwintering
Optimal 20–32°C — one of the more cold-tolerant Euphorbias — with a 5°C winter floor. In habitat it occasionally dips below freezing, but damp soil combined with cold is the main risk. From autumn, taper water in stages and overwinter dry on a bright indoor window, out of rain.
Starting from Seed
Where to source seeds
links go directly to the product page; the rest are scientific-name searches. Stock fluctuates — verify availability on the destination site.
Pre-sowing treatment
Soak seeds for about half a day in a mix of a registered seed-treatment fungicide (Benlate or Daconil) and a plant tonic (Menedael; outside Japan, SUPERthrive or a chelated iron / seaweed extract works similarly), each diluted per label. The ones that don't sink are usually empty.
Substrate
Use a separate seedling mix that's fine-grained and near-sterile: fine Akadama, fine Kanuma, and vermiculite in equal 1:1:1 parts. Sterilize the mix with boiling water or a quick microwave pass before sowing.
Sowing method
Sow with no covering, or only the thinnest dusting of substrate so the seeds remain partly visible. Space them at least 1 cm apart so they don't clump or overlap on the surface.
Light & temperature
Keep the tray in bright shade at a steady 22–28°C. Expect germination in 7–21 days. Germination depends on seed freshness, but with fresh seed it is reasonably steady.
Watering
Bottom-water with the level 1–2 cm up the pot. For the first 2–3 weeks, prioritize not letting things dry at all, then drop the level in steady stages once the seedlings have come up.
Fertilizer
No feeding right after germination. Once the true leaves emerge, give a heavily diluted liquid fertilizer once or twice a month — go lighter than the label suggests for safety.
From Germination to Repotting
Germination through true leaves
Continue bottom watering and avoid strong light.
Weaning off bottom watering
Wean off gradually over 1–2 months.
First repotting
In year 1 or 2, once the plant becomes root-bound.
Common Pitfalls
Mold & damping-off
- Cause: Excess moisture, contamination
- Prevention: Sterilize substrate, ensure ventilation
Etiolation
- Cause: Insufficient light
- Prevention: Move the LED closer right after germination, or move outdoors to bright shade
Seeds fail to germinate
- Cause: Stale seeds, insufficient temperature
- Prevention: Use fresh seeds and a heat mat
Notes
The latex can irritate if it gets on skin or mucous membranes — take care with hands and eyes.
