A pachycaul tree of the Malvaceae (formerly Bombacaceae) from the seasonally dry forests of southern Ecuador and northern Peru — the Tumbes–Piura ecoregion. The grey-green trunk swells into a pronounced bottle shape and is studded with stout conical prickles; mature trees reach 12–30 m and produce large creamy-white to pale-yellow flowers at night during the leafless season, pollinated by bats. Woody capsules release seeds wrapped in white kapok floss. The species was transferred from Chorisia to Ceiba in 1988, but Japanese caudex circles still use both names interchangeably. The trunk thickens early even in seedlings, making it a popular entry-point caudex.
Native climate
Rainfall is spread fairly evenly across the year. Overall a mild climate.
A broad-scale picture of the native range. Real growing spots — rock crevices, fog belts — can be milder.
Sources: climate & elevation WorldClim 2.1 (1970–2000) · occurrences GBIF · native range POWO · current weather Open-Meteo
Care
Light & Placement
Native to the seasonally dry forests of southern Ecuador and northern Peru, this species craves strong sun. Outdoors in full sun during the growing season the bottle-shaped trunk stays tight and the petioles short, holding the form well. In Japan's midsummer apply about 30% shade, raise the pot off the ground onto a bench, and keep airflow generous. After leaf-drop, move it early to a bright indoor window held above 8°C — never leave it outside for the cold months. Watch your hands when moving the plant: prickles appear even on young trunks.
Watering
In active growth, water thoroughly once the surface dries — alternating wet and dry plumps the trunk. Don't leave water in the saucer. After leaf-drop, hold essentially dry through dormancy with at most a monthly misting.
Substrate
Drainage first, inorganic-led. Akadama : Kanuma : pumice = 4:3:3. A taller pot helps keep wet–dry cycles clean and the swollen trunk healthy.
Fertilizer & Supplements
A diluted liquid feed once or twice a month in active growth, or a pinch of slow-release at repotting. The species grows fast and the trunk thickens noticeably with modest feeding.
Temperature & Overwintering
Active growth runs 22–35°C; aim for an 8°C minimum. The trunk is cold-sensitive — exposure below 5°C tends to damage tissue. Move under cover early in autumn and overwinter dry on a bright indoor window.
Starting from Seed
Where to source seeds
Pre-sowing treatment
Soak seeds for about half a day (overnight) in a mix of a registered seed-treatment fungicide (Benlate or Daconil) and a plant tonic (Menedael; outside Japan, SUPERthrive or a chelated iron / seaweed extract works similarly), each diluted per label. Floaters are likely no longer viable. The seed coat is fairly hard, so warm water helps imbibition get going.
Substrate
A fine-grained, near-sterile seedling mix: fine Akadama, fine Kanuma, vermiculite in 1:1:1 parts. Sterilize with boiling water or a microwave pass for safety.
Sowing method
Seeds are roughly spherical and on the larger side — press them onto the surface and add only the thinnest covering. Space at least 1 cm apart to avoid crowding.
Light & temperature
Bright shade at a steady 25–30°C. Expect germination in 7–21 days. Germination depends strongly on seed freshness, but fresh seed tends to come up well.
Watering
Bottom-water with the level 1–2 cm up the pot. For the first 2–3 weeks, don't let things dry out, then drop the level gradually as seedlings come up.
Fertilizer
No feeding right after germination. Once true leaves emerge, give a heavily diluted liquid fertilizer once or twice a month — growth is brisk without pushing the dose.
From Germination to Repotting
Germination through true leaves
Continue bottom watering, avoid strong light.
Weaning off bottom watering
Transition gradually over 1–2 months.
First repotting
In the first year, once the plant has become root-bound.
Common Pitfalls
Mold & damping-off
- Cause: excess moisture, contamination, poor air flow
- Prevention: sterilize substrate, change bottom water frequently
Etiolation
- Cause: insufficient light, heat-and-humidity stress
- Prevention: bring LEDs closer right after germination, or move to bright shade outdoors
Seeds fail to germinate
- Cause: stale seed, insufficient warmth
- Prevention: fresh seed and 25–30°C on a heat mat
Notes
The trunk and branch prickles are sharp — never handle bare-handed.
